Returning to the Costa Brava in winter time

16th of December, 2022

It is time to go back to the Baix Emporda on the Costa Brava, Spain. Many years ago, Christmas was mostly celebrated at my parent’s house, just outside the medieval village of Pals. I always wanted to go back one time in the month of December, when the sky is deep blue and crystal clear. Even the sound of the wind through the pine trees is different in winter time. The sun is strong enough to enjoy the outdoors and the evenings are cold enough to get the fire place going.

Twice I went back alone and with my son for a week in February, but this time my partner and I rented a house for a month. It will give us plenty of time to see the many gems of the Costa Brava. Our rental place is conveniently situated just outside the charming town of Begur.

From here, we have easy access to the back country of the Empordá and to all the coastal treasures. For sure, I will show my partner all the favorite places I visited in the past. My blog covers already a few chapters about the Costa Brava. I am positive, we will also discover some new points of interest!

On the second day after our arrival, we are longing for a good hike. Although the two-day trip by car from The Netherlands to Spain went smooth, it is great to stretch the legs again! The 12 km trail starts from our house, then into Begur and all the way down to the tiny fishing village of Sa Tuna. I never walked this loop and the last time I was in Sa Tuna must have been around 30 years ago. We downloaded the route from Komoot on the phone, which is normally fairly accurate. Though they keep on building new houses and trails suddenly disappear! We manage to go all the 350 mts down and up again and I feel the first blister appearing! Never thought those new blister plasters would work so perfect. I will keep them in my backpack forever!

Sa Tuna

During the following days, we take it easy. We climb to the castle of Begur, visit the great local market of Toroella, hike the coastal road from Sa Riera to Cala de l’lla Roja, go back to the old house of my parents and sip wine in ‘La Vila’ in Pals.

The weather is superb with temperatures in between 16 and 19 degrees Celsius! In 1984 we had snow around Christmas and minus 10 degrees!!! We are looking forward to the Christmas celebrations in Pals and the traditions on the 5th of January!

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