Category: Spain

Some last impressions of the Costa Brava

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

One whole month we explored the Costa Brava and fully enjoyed the winter weather, the scenery, the culture, the hikes and the food! During these last days we combine nice hikes with good local food and I will mention a few of our favorite restaurants. In winter time some popular eateries are closing their doors for a long holiday, but there was still enough choice.

Early one morning we hike in the woods behind Masos de Pals. It is still cold and misty and slowly some sunrays are trying to lighten the trees.

We continue our hike to Restaurant Mar Blau at Platja El Racó. This is the only place at the beach open during the winter months and always busy. Today it is time for Paëlla!

From the centre of Pals we discover a trail which brings us via a tunnel all the way to the other side of the main road.

It is circular road through the woods and on the way back we walk over an old rocky riverbed. It is a hike of around 2,5 km, but with an elevation of 230 mts. You will be rewarded with a stunning panoramic 360 degree view over Masos de Pals, Pals and Regencos!

Can Bassalis

Once back in Pals, it is time to go for lunch. Can Bassalis in Masos de Pals is a Hostal-Restaurant run by the family. It is pretty basic, but the food and house wine are great value! They serve a three-course menu for 13 euro, including the wine.

If you like snails, then go to Ca La Teresa in Pals. A very popular restaurant among the locals with a menu to choose from.

La Vila, on the square, at the entrance of the ancient town centre, is our favorite tapas bar. The perfect spot to catch some winter sun and enjoy homemade tapas and wine of the region.

Tapas

On a Tuesday we visit the huge market in Palamos. If you need clothes and want some bargains, then this is the place to be! Combine shopping with a stroll along the promenade and a tasty lunch. There are plenty of eateries! At the end of the afternoon, the fishing boats are returning to the harbour and the fish auction starts.

Palamos
Palamos

Many people travel to the Costa Brava only for the beach, but the coastline and the backcountry are offering so much more.

We will return!

Girona, the historic capital of Catalonia

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

Girona (Gerona) is just a short drive inland from the coast and a lovely city to explore! It lies on the banks of the Oñar river and has a rich history.
We park the car just outside the centre, close to the famous department store El Corte Inglés. It is the time of the “Rebajas” or Sales and we first go hunting for some bargains. From the parking place it is an easy walk into the old town.

After crossing the Pont de Pedra bridge, we can start our sightseeing tour along the heritage buildings and all the famous landmarks. Girona offers more than 2000 years of history and was ruled by Iberians, Romans, Muslims and many more. Their influences are still visible.

We walk up and down the streets and discover impressive plazas, many bridges, the Basilica of Sant Feliú and the Cathedral of Santa Maria, which has the widest Gothic arch in the world!

La Força Vella or fortress dates back to the Roman foundation. The city walls had been extended during the 14th and 15th centuries. While walking over the wall you get superb views over different parts of the city.çç

There was a thriving Jewish community until 1492. We find the quarter or Call while exploring a labyrinth of old, narrow streets.

Girona is also a popular market town. Many years ago, we used to go on a Tuesday or Saturday to the open-air Ribes del Ter market in the Devesa Park. A variety of produce is always available; fruit, vegetables, clothes, shoes and gifts.

Besides the historical highlights, the markets and the many museums, there are plenty of restaurants to enjoy great local food and tapas! A visit of one day to this gem in Catalonia is way too short!

Teatre-Museu Dalí and Caldes de Malavella

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

Do not leave Catalonia without a visit to the Teatro-Museu Gala Salvador Dalí! The famous surrealist artist was born in the cultural town of Figueres, situated on the plains of the Alt Empordà. In the centre of this lively market town, you will notice the remarkable museum immediately!

The holiday season is not over yet and the museum is popular. People are lined up in front of the entrance. We buy our tickets and it shows the time you are allowed to enter. It means a short wait of fifteen minutes; not bad! A study of the building itself and the statues around are keeping us busy.

I have always been an admirer of Salvador Dalí. His work represent many different art movements; Realism, Surrealism, Cubism and Abstract Expressionism. Around 40 years ago, I visited this museum for the first time.

 

Dalí was born in 1904 and died in Figueres in 1989. His tomb lays in the crypt of his Theatre-Museum. The artist spent most of his time together with his wife Gala in their house in Port Lligat. Later, Salvador Dalí bought a castle in Púbol for his muse and he was only allowed to visit with her special permission. After Gala’s death, Dalí moved to the castle, where she was entombed. All these places are situated in Catalonia and worth a visit!

 

On another occasion we drive to the sleepy Spa town of Caldes de Malavella. It is nestled on the plain of La Selva, away from the coast line.

In the first century AD, the Roman discovered the natural healing springs. They founded a settlement, which they called Aquae Calidae. The remains of the baths are visible in the centre. The municipality has three mineral-medicinal fountains. Here, the water emerges from underground at an average temperature of 56 degrees Celsius.

 

There are two prestigious Spas; The Balneari Prats (1840) and Balneari Vichy Catalán (1898), built in art nouveau and neoclassical architectural forms.

The Balneari Prats

We visit both, just to see the buildings and relax for a moment on the terrace. In the near future, we might go back and stay for a few overnights. Prices are very reasonable outside the season! The small town also offers plenty of hiking and biking trails, the chapel of Sant Maurici and the ruins of the castle of Malavella.

The name Caldes (hot mineral springs) de Malavella comes from a local legend about an old, malicious aristocratic lady, who lived in the now-ruined castle. Mala means “bad” and vella means “old”. The thermal springs of the old evil one!!!

 

Hiking in between the volcanoes of the Garrotxa

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

Our neighbour in Begur told us about the fabulous hiking possibilities in the Natural Park of the Volcanic Zone of the Garrotxa. In between Olot and Santa Pau, some 40 dormant volcanic cones and more than 20 lava flows can be found. The last eruption occured about 11,000 years ago.

Today, the 7th of January, the perfect weather invites us for a long hike; a clear and sunny sky and cooler temperatures. We decide to take the circular route of around 15 km, with a height difference of 240 mt. It will bring us to Volcán de Santa Margarita and Volcán del Croscat.

Just outside Olot, direction Santa Pau, we park the car on a designated parking place. At this time of the year it is free parking. The information board tells us all about the different loops. The Natural Reserve covers a rough 120 km², which means there are many more starting points.

We fully enjoy our hike, as it is very divers! Pretty easy in the beginning, with marvellous views over different volcanoes in the far distance. Later, the wide path becomes smaller and goes steep up towards the extinct Santa Margarida Volcano. Ash layers are still visible in the walls of the cone. Nestled right inside the caldera, lies the Santa Margarida de Sacot Chapel. A very unusual but special place!

Leaving the volcano, the trail gets extremely narrow and brings us all the way down. We appreciate the beauty and stillness of the countryside. A totally different landscape lies in front of us, with here and there a ruin, a farmhouse and a small church.

 

Suddenly, we arrive in a beech wood forest that stands on the lava flow of the volcano Croscat. Here the sun-rays get plenty of chances to play around….

It is called La Fageda d’En Jordá and it always has been an inspiration for artists, such as Joan Maragall. He immortalized it in a poem, that gave the forest its fame;

The traveller on foot, entering this place

begins to slow his walk, counting his steps, in the great silence

he stops and hears nothing, and feels lost

A sweet oblivion of wordly things comes over him

in the silence of this profound place

and he thinks not of leaving

or he thinks in vain

he is a captive of La Fageda d’En Jordá 

a prisoner of the silence and the green

Oh, company

Oh, liberating prison

 

 

 

 

 

Day trip to Besalú, Banyoles and Castellfollit

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

Most visitors to the Costa Brava stay on the coast. They don’t realize that the inner country has so much more to offer. On the slopes of the Pyrenees, in the Garrotxa Natural Park, you will find many medieval towns, old volcanoes, lakes and wild rivers. Besalú is well-known for the stunning romanesque bridge over the river Fluvia. The small medieval town has strong Jewish influences and two romanesque churches. To enjoy the scenery and the views over the bridge, it is best to visit early!

Besalú

From Besalú it is only a short drive to one of the smallest towns in Catalonia; Castellfollit de la Roca. It is built on a 50-meter high clifftop and right at the crossing of the Fluvià and Toronell river.

There is not much to visit in the village itself, except the Romanesque Iglesia de Sant Salvador, located in a spectacular setting! From the centre, a hiking path brings you all the way down to the river. While standing on a small bridge, you see high above the houses and the church clinging to the edge of the basalt cliff. Very impressive!

Catellfollit de la Roca

Banyoles is our last stop for today. It changed into a bigger city, but the lake still kept it’s charm. Famous, as in 1992 the Olympic rowing races took place on the pristine waters. At this time of the year not much is happening, but it is a popular recreation area during the warmer months.

After a short stroll around, we decide to have a late lunch/early dinner. We are lucky to find an empty spot in one of the restaurants close to the lake side. They serve a delicious three-course menu with fish, including wine for 20 euro a person. After our meal, we witness the sun going down over the water and take some last pictures, before driving back to the coast.

Traditions during the holiday season in Cataluña

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

25th of December and 5th of January, 2023

One of my most vivid memories of the Christmas holidays in Cataluña, is the ‘pessebre vivent’ in Pals or the Living Nativity. As darkness falls, the medieval village comes alive for a couple of hours. Hundreds of visitors flock over the old cobblestone road.

On every corner of the street, the church square and the old market place, the inhabitants of Pals are representing Nativity scenes. Torches are illuminating the historic buildings. More than 200 participants are guiding the visitors through different passages of the old and new testament.

pessebre vivent Pals

Our children were very small, when we took them for the first time to the Christmas celebrations in Pals. I remember their glowing faces in the soft light of the street lanterns. Now, 30 years later, we see the same glow on the face of other people’s children. This time I don’t recognize any of the participants anymore; another generation replaced the older inhabitants of Pals. The event has grown bigger with more Nativity scenes. The only thing I miss are the donkeys!

Another important festivity for the children, is the arrival of The Three Kings or Los Reyes Magos on the 5th of January. Melchior, Balthazar and Caspar enter the town on their horses (or camels), late in the afternoon. In most big cities in Spain it is celebrated with a huge parade. Here, in ancient Begur, the ceremony is intimate. Candies are thrown to the children and in the early hours of the 6th of January, the Three Wise Men are leaving presents under the Christmas tree. The “clip clop” of the horses, the colourful costumes and the sound of the drums are just like a fairy tale. The decor of the 17th century ‘Església Parroquial de Sant Pere’ makes the story complete!

Hiking the Camino de Ronda on the Costa Brava

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

December, 2022

Tamariú is known for the lovely fish restaurants, but it is also the starting point of a fabulous two-hour hike. We park the car close to the bay and follow the coastal path. From time to time we look back to enjoy the view over the small fishing village.

At some point the trail stops and in front of us are enormous sea rocks. We carefully hop from one rock to the other and sometimes you need hand and feet! After the rocky part, a pine forest starts and from here a narrow winding path goes steep down and all the way up.

 

The coastal views are impressive and more towards the light house of San Sebastian, the rock formations become higher and higher. Maybe not a hike for very small children, but we, as seniors these days, are doing fine!

Until now, we only met two other hikers. This is why we love going to Spain during winter time!

Lighthouse San Sebastian

From the light house, the road continues to Llafranc, a very pretty fishing village with a gorgeous beach.

view from the lighthouse
Llafranc

After passing the promenade of Llafranc, the coastal trail brings us towards pictoresque Calella de Palafrugell. I fell in love with this gem a long time ago. Even in winter time many restaurants are still open, to welcome visitors from Barcelona, a few tourists and residents from the area.

We have an early supper outside, while the sun is slowly going down. The owner of the restaurant will order a taxi for us, as it will be too late to walk all the way back to Tamariú.

Another part of the Camino (or Cami) de Ronda starts at La Fosca, just North of Palamos. Over the past years many hiking trails are renewed and improved. Nowadays, people can enjoy hours of walking along the Mediterranean coast.

We arrive around 10.00 a.m. on the quiet car parking close to the beach. I don’t think I ever visited this secluded place and we are surprised to see a very pristine bay in front of us. A few people are swimming in the cold water and some others are sipping their morning coffee on a terrace.

La Fosca

After crossing the beach of La Fosca, the footpath starts towards Calella de Palafrugell. First you pass the ruined Castell de Sant Esteve de Mar, with views over the Roca Fosca, and then the loop continues to the fisherman’s village S’Alguer. The weather is perfect and the colorful houses are eye-catching!

Soon the path guides us through a pine and cork oak forest, with some steep climbs all the way up. Not many hikers are leaving the coast and we enjoy the stillness of the environment. Finally, the road joins the coastal trail again and Calella de Palafrugell is visible in the far distance.

The days are short this time of the year and we do hope to witness the sun going down on the beach of La Fosca. So it is time to return, and walk via another forest loop all the way back. Later in the afternoon, we treat ourselves on some tapas and a drink, while soaking up the last sunrays!

Returning to the Costa Brava in winter time

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

16th of December, 2022

It is time to go back to the Baix Emporda on the Costa Brava, Spain. Many years ago, Christmas was mostly celebrated at my parent’s house, just outside the medieval village of Pals. I always wanted to go back one time in the month of December, when the sky is deep blue and crystal clear. Even the sound of the wind through the pine trees is different in winter time. The sun is strong enough to enjoy the outdoors and the evenings are cold enough to get the fire place going.

Twice I went back alone and with my son for a week in February, but this time my partner and I rented a house for a month. It will give us plenty of time to see the many gems of the Costa Brava. Our rental place is conveniently situated just outside the charming town of Begur.

From here, we have easy access to the back country of the Empordá and to all the coastal treasures. For sure, I will show my partner all the favorite places I visited in the past. My blog covers already a few chapters about the Costa Brava. I am positive, we will also discover some new points of interest!

On the second day after our arrival, we are longing for a good hike. Although the two-day trip by car from The Netherlands to Spain went smooth, it is great to stretch the legs again! The 12 km trail starts from our house, then into Begur and all the way down to the tiny fishing village of Sa Tuna. I never walked this loop and the last time I was in Sa Tuna must have been around 30 years ago. We downloaded the route from Komoot on the phone, which is normally fairly accurate. Though they keep on building new houses and trails suddenly disappear! We manage to go all the 350 mts down and up again and I feel the first blister appearing! Never thought those new blister plasters would work so perfect. I will keep them in my backpack forever!

Sa Tuna

During the following days, we take it easy. We climb to the castle of Begur, visit the great local market of Toroella, hike the coastal road from Sa Riera to Cala de l’lla Roja, go back to the old house of my parents and sip wine in ‘La Vila’ in Pals.

l’Ila Roja
Begur
Cala I’lla Roja
Sa Riera

The weather is superb with temperatures in between 16 and 19 degrees Celsius! In 1984 we had snow around Christmas and minus 10 degrees!!! We are looking forward to the Christmas celebrations in Pals and the traditions on the 5th of January!