Highway 99 from Lillooet via Squamish to Vancouver

June 2023

In the afternoon, we leave Lillooet and follow highway 99 up in the mountains. The road is known as one of the most beautiful drives in the world! At times, pretty narrow and curvy, but the views are one of a kind. Deep down we see the emerald coloured Seton Lake Reservoir and the next moment it feels like driving through a gorge. Impressive mountain ranges are bordering the ‘Sea to Sky’ highway.

On various occasions, we stop the car to take pictures and admire the panorama.

From Lillooet to Squamish

Our destination for today is Squamish, a town which was developed during the construction of the Pacific Great Eastern Railway in 1910.

The indigenous Squamish people lived already for thousands of years in this area and are still living here.

Our hotel for the night is the Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company. Very conveniently located on walking distance of downtown, and with views over the rock formations in the harbour.

Squamish Harbour

The next morning, we are leaving on time, as there will be plenty of stops on our way to Vancouver. Although we both never have been to Whistler, we decide to skip this very touristic town. Instead, we will visit Horseshoe Bay and Cypress Park.

Some very informative indigenous kiosks are situated along the highway. They tell you interesting stories about the Squamish Nation.

Horseshoe Bay is a quaint seaside village, full of action, as it is the terminal for BC Ferries. From here, boats are leaving to Bowen Island, Nanaimo on Vancouver Island and to other destinations.

Horseshoe Bay

In town there are plenty of gift shops, small (take-out) restaurants and art galleries.

We didn’t regret our visit, as the vistas over the harbour, the mountains, and the islands are striking!

Our next pause is Cypress Park, on the other side of highway 99.  An area with forests of fir, hemlock, and yellow cypress and an active wildlife! It is possible to drive the car all the way up the mountain, until you reach the Alpine ski facilities. From this point many loops are starting.

Even though it is nearly summer, some last patches of snow are visible!

Our hike is short, but enjoyable, and it gives us a fantastic view over the archipelago and Vancouver.

View from Cypress Park

This is the last stop, before we reach Vancouver, where we will spend our last two days of this amazing trip!

View from Cypress Park over Vancouver

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lillooet, a diverse community on the Fraser River

June 2023

There are two ways to drive from Salmon Arm to Vancouver. If not in a hurry, don’t go on highway 1. Take route 97 from Cache Creek and continue on the 99. You will not regret it!

After Kamloops, we enter an empty country. Finally, we pass the old miner’s town Cache Creek and drive into Marble Canyon Provincial Park. The mountains change from colour and shape constantly, and the road is extremely quiet.

At some point, the climbing route joins the Fraser River. Immediately, we stop the car to admire the gorge and the wild flowing waters.

Finally, we continue on highway 99, until we reach our destination; Lillooet (pronounce it as ‘little wet’).

This is the unceded ancestral lands of three Nations, Líl̓wat Nation, the St’at’imc Nation, and the Tŝilhqot’in Nation.

Tsuwalhkálh ti tmícwa (the land is ours).

It is rugged and incredible beautiful!

Where there’s nothing to come between you and the remembering, that you too are made up of wind and fire, earth and water.

We booked a small but lovely accommodation for one night. It is called Comfort Zone B & B. Our landlady is also Dutch and very helpful and welcoming. She gives us some great suggestions; hiking to the old bridge and visiting the winery.

End of the afternoon we explore the main street, and it feels like a reflection of a Western movie.

In 1860 Lillooet was a very large city, and part of the route to the Cariboo gold fields.

Nowadays, it is a small town, but still significant. In particular, for its agricultural abundance, the fishing for trout, salmon and sturgeon, the indigenous art and the cultural heritage.

Lillooet is also called Jade town. In the past and even today, jade can be discovered on the shores of the rivers and in the surrounding mountains.

There are cute stores, a wonderful artisan bakery and a variety of restaurants. The former Anglican church, St. Mary’s the Virgin, is transformed into a museum. Definitely worth a visit, as the building has old machinery, indigenous artefacts, gold mining relics and an old newspaper office.

The next morning, after our breakfast, we walk to the old suspension bridge. It seems that the osprey (fish eagle) is having a nest on the steel construction of the bridge. Even a webcam is present to follow the activity!

Although my phone takes great pictures, I never could have captured the birds, without my 60 times zoom camera.

Besides the bird’s nest, we admire the construction of the bridge and the outstanding views over the Fraser River.

After, we slowly stroll back into town, visit some stores, the museum, and witness a get-together of indigenous people and other locals. They all sing and dance together in front of the museum.

On our way out of town, we decide to visit the winery (owned by a Dutch couple), and have a small bite and a glass of wine on the terrace. The views from here over the vineyard, river, and mountains are impressive.

A deer is grazing in the garden and even the mountain bluebird is flying around!

It is nearly time to continue our trip towards Squamish, where we booked a room for one night.

Lillooet stole our heart. On another occasion, we do hope to return to this beautiful spot on the banks of the Fraser River.

” In this lash and spill of water, in the slow grinding of rock and cliff, in the perpetual slide of mountain and forest, in the erosion of mountain and gumbo rangeland, in the impact of whirlpool and winter ice, the river is forever mad, ravenous and lonely ”       

Bruce Hutchinson    ‘ The Fraser ‘

 

A house sit in Salmon Arm on Shuswap Lake

June 2023.

A few weeks ago, I found a great house and pet sit for 6 days, in Salmon Arm on Shuswap Lake. The place is located West of Revelstoke and we haven’t been in that area yet. The drive will take around 4 to 5 hours from my son’s place in the Kootenays. For the first night, we found a nice Airbnb, just outside Salmon Arm.

We decide to take the small Hwy 31, towards the ferry in Galena Bay. It is an amazing two-hour drive right through the wilderness, via a gravel road. The only other vehicle we pass is a log truck. Thank goodness, it happens just in a wider stretch of the road! We expected to see some more bears, but we only saw a wild turkey with her chicks.

After the ferry brings us from Galena Bay to Shelter Bay, on the other side of Upper Arrow Lake, we continue driving in direction Revelstoke. Entering the Trans-Canadian highway, we turn left. It is an easy drive to our destination, with panoramic views.

Our Airbnb is called “The Shaw Shack”. A spacious, clean and quiet apartment with a lovely garden. Definitely, a place we would like to go back to, on another occasion in the future.

Salmon Arm is situated on Shuswap Lake, with more than 400 kilometers of shoreline. This is the land of the Secwépemc people; “the spread-out people”.

Shuswap region is the heart of the traditional territories of the Secwépemc; “the meeting of the waters”.

Just before the rendezvous with owners and pets of our house sit, we quickly drive into town, to get a glimpse of the impressive lake.

The lovely house is located just outside Salmon Arm and has a very long driveway. There are trails into the woods from the back garden and there is an inviting sandy (dog) beach close by. Perfect, as we get some very hot days!

The pets are just adorable, and the cat loves to play hide and seek. We take the dog on different hikes to various impressive waterfalls. In some areas, like the Syphon Falls, the mosquitos are pretty annoying!

We stroll over the longest inland wharf in North-America, admire the wetlands and go wine tasting at Sunnybrae Vineyards.

The Salmon Arm Bay Nature Enhancement Area is great for wildlife viewing!

The six days are gone in no-time! Maybe one day, we can return to this wonderful house sit!

Our next leg of this trip is bringing us to Lillooet, a gem on the banks of the Fraser River.

 

 

Exploring Meadow Mountain and the Lardeau Valley

June 2023

Although we would have loved to climb to Monica Meadows again (see my other blog post), it is not possible due to the snow covered mountain. We try Meadow Mountain instead. The pickup truck of my son brings us high up, until we reach the first snow. From here, we can go by foot. The trail is wide and not too steep.

It seems we are the first persons to walk up Meadow Mountain after the winter. And it is June!!! No other footprints, and in the refuge higher up are still the unopened beer cans of last year present. In the winter, this is a perfect snowmobiling area. No ski lifts available!

Refuge on Meadow Mountain BC

The dog enjoys these unexpected patches of snow! It feels weird to walk in shorts on the white stuff.

My son makes a lot of noise by shouting and clapping in his hands, on every curve of the trail. This is grizzly bear territory, and you should always stay alert.

In the same area we did see a black bear the other day, just down the road!

 

 

Our days in the Lardeau Valley are filled with activity. We show my daughter all the favorite hiking and sightseeing spots from our last visit in 2021. We even swim in the freezing waters of Kootenay Glacier Lake and go on a kayak and canoe trip.

While on the pristine waters, alone in your boat, you reconnect with nature.

Kootenay Lake

During the very warm days, we take the dog for a swim in Duncan Lake. This is a man-made reservoir and around 45 kilometers in length! The temperatures are way higher than Kootenay Lake.

Ten days living the Canadian way with barbecues, camp fires (still possible in June) and enjoying wild life.

Finally, my daughter hops on the bus in Kaslo, which will bring her back to Vancouver. We prepare for a 5-day house sit in Salmon Arm, conveniently situated on the way to the coast.

 

 

From Vancouver to Kaslo and beyond

June, 2023

The month of June is perfect for a visit to my son, who lives close to the slopes of the Purcell mountain range in Canada. Temperatures are still moderate and no threats of wildfires yet in this part of British Columbia.

In September 2021, we flew from Amsterdam to Calgary and started there our journey to the Kootenays. This time we booked a ticket to Vancouver, where we reserved our rental car and a one night stay close to the airport. My daughter, who lives in Australia, will join us to visit her brother. It is great to see her again after one year and we are all excited to go on this road trip.

Vancouver early morning

Due to our jetlag we wake up at 4.00 a.m. and our first stop is Tim Hortons on the next corner. Very convenient, as they are open 24 hours of the day. We grab a coffee and their famous bagel with cream cheese! Just before the traffic gets too dense, we leave the city behind us and prepare for a long drive in the car.

The scenery is getting interested in the vicinity of Hope, a community surrounded by two important rivers, a mountain range and a canyon. It is also the centre of many highways and we go from here east, towards the Kootenays. Driving in Canada is never boring, as the impressive landscape changes constantly.

From Merritt we drive to Kelowna, situated in the Okanagan valley. Wineries thrive here, due to the mild climate. Also a perfect stop to get some last groceries in and our wine supply!

We leave this bustling town and follow the quiet highway towards Vernon, where we turn right direction Needles. Lumby, a cute small village, is our last opportunity to have lunch, as after, we are entering “nowhere land”. The road is getting smaller, very peaceful and is surrounded by woodland. It will end at the cable ferry, which will bring us to Fauquier, on the other side of Lower Arrow Lake.

Just before we reach Needles, we notice a young wolf in the field beside the road! We immediately stop the car and open the window. I even get out of the car and the wolf just keeps on wandering around. I can see he is holding a small prey. So beautiful to watch this!

The ferry leaves every half an hour and brings us in less than 10 minutes to the other side of the lake. We try to soak in all the views, as this is a beautiful part of Canada!

Lower Arrow Lake

Our drive continues along the lake to Nakusp. Last time, we arrived from the northern route (see blog Canada September 2021).  The final part of this long drive will take around two hours, as it is still a 135 km distance. Barely any traffic on the winding road, with stunning views over lakes and fast streaming rivers.

Suddenly, we see a cute black bear enjoying the green grasses right at the side of the road!!! It is not impressed with the attention we show. He (or she) just keeps on eating, although we park the car right in front of him.

Around 6.oo p.m. we arrive at my son’s place in the Lardeau Valley, a remote mountainous area of around 6 communities and roughly 400 residents.

His dog is already waiting on the long drive way. It feels like coming home!

A four day road trip from Kaslo to Calgary

October, 2021

It is time to say goodbye to my son and his amazing cute and clever dog! I am already looking forward to my/our next visit in this isolated part of the Kootenay Rockies.

We decide to take a different road, back towards Banff and Calgary and just see where we will end up on our first day. From Kaslo we drive to Balfour, where we take the (free) ferry towards Kootenay Bay. It takes around 30 minutes from one side to the other and we fully enjoy the views on this sunny day.

Our first stop is Cranbrook, where we grab a coffee in the lively shopping street. According to the signs we are pretty close to the US border! In Creston it is harvest time; on every corner of the street pumpkins are sold! Creston valley is one of BC’s prime agricultural regions. Grapes, peaches and cherries are growing here in abundance!

We decide to stay in Kimberley for the night (in a simple, smelly, but spacious apartment) and drive to Banff the next day. There, we will spend two nights in the cozy Hotel Fox & Suites. From Kimberley we follow the road to Invermere, where we take some time to explore the town. It is so much colder here in comparison to the Creston area. We are surprised to see the deer just wandering beside the street!

It is fun driving in this part of Canada. The roads are perfect, barely any traffic and the light over the mountains changes every minute.

At Radio Hot Springs we follow the narrow canyon highway 93 towards Banff. Suddenly snow is fallen and some goats are crossing!!!

We make twice a stop on Kootenay Highway 93. First at Numa Falls; there is a small parking place off the road from where you can walk towards a bridge. There is also a hiking trail starting from the other side of the bridge.

Our second stop is at Marble Canyon and Tokumm Creek; a small path will bring you via a few bridges higher up and here the river splashes deep down in the gorge.

Just before we enter Banff, we have a last stop to enjoy the view over the lake.

At the end of the afternoon we arrive at our hotel and enjoy a nice meal in town. The next day brings us to Johnston Canyon (this time we bought our Banff National Park ticket online!). The canyon is very popular by visitors from all over the world. We walk the trail from the Lower Falls to the Upper Falls and beyond, but we leave the last track to the Inkpots for next time!

From the Falls we drive to Lake Minnewanka, where I went on a boattrip a couple of years before. This time we just hike along the shores of this serene glacial lake. Most tourists are gone and we appreciate the stillness of the surroundings.

Our last day, we will spend in and around my favorite place Canmore, where I was house sitting in 2015. A lovely town, situated along the Bowriver, with plenty of wildlife and hiking trails! I want to show my partner fascinating Grassi Lakes, just outside Canmore. It is a nice moderate climb up the mountain, together with many other visitors, but still worth it! We wait for the sun to rise above the mountain; once the sunlight starts shining in the crystal clear waters, sparkles start dancing!

In the afternoon we hike along the Bow River, explore the town and have a late lunch outside on the main street. We both fully agree that Canmore is more relaxed and less touristy than Banff. Next time we will stay in Canmore for a night or two!

After lunch, we go for one more hike along the other side of the river. We notice some Elks by the river side. Suddenly, we see a herd of Elk (Wapiti) on the local sports field! They even roam in between the houses. There must be around 60 all together…..The rutting season (from September until mid-October) has started. Male Elks can behave very aggressively, as they herd females for breeding. We better stay on a safe distance!

It is getting late and time to say goodbye to Canmore. We still have to drive to our airport hotel in Calgary, as our flight leaves tomorrow afternoon. These last two weeks have been an amazing adventure. We do hope to return soon, to the beautiful Rocky Mountains of Canada!

 

 

 

Kaslo, a jewel on the shores of Kootenay Lake

October, 2021.

Another day trip brings us to the “secret hot springs”, only known by the locals and surrounded by forests and a wild and very cold river. There is a small campground and the steep stairs will lead you to different tiny waterbassins along the river. A very relaxing area to spend the day. The dog also loves the hot springs! Next time we will bring a tent!

A highlight is our visit to Kaslo, a quaint and scenic little village with an impressive history. The Kootenay area was first discovered by indigenous nomads. There were two nations; Ktunaxa (Kutenai) and the Sinixt (Lakes). They lived from fishing and the abundance of wild fruits. Later, after settlers built the first log cabins, Kaslo became a sawmill site. After, the mining started and the Kaslo railway became important for transporting silver ore. Once mining was stopped, fruit farming and logging became the sources of income for the inhabitants of Kaslo. Nowadays, Kaslo is also a popular summer and winter tourist destination. Although it was struck by two huge disasters in 1894, a big fire and devastating floods, the people of Kaslo rebuilt their home town again and again. Since knowing its history, I even more appreciate the beauty of this historical village.

 

 

There are many great stores in Kaslo, where you can buy all kinds of meat, cheeses, wines and bread. The small fish and chips kiosk is famous and we grab some lunch to take to the park.

From the shores of Kootenay Lake we hike along the river up to the village, where we follow for a while the Kaslo River Trail. It brings us to the bright red Unity Bridge, which connects the north and south sides of the River Trail. Next time we hope to complete the 10 km loop, but it soon will be dark, so time to return home.

 

 

Monica Meadows; nature at its best!

September, 2021

My son drives us to the west side of the Purcell Mountain Range, for a hike to Monica Meadows. Until now he never had time to explore the trail, so none of us will know what to expect. We bring food, drinks and the special outfit for the dog. We all “hop” in the car (for me it takes a bit longer…) and start our adventure.

The access road towards the trailhead is not easy! It is 90 minutes driving over a bumpy gravel road! The wonderful views are a good distraction.

Finally, we arrive at the quiet parking lot. During the weekends it can be packed with other visitors, but on this Wednesday morning there are just a handful of hikers. The weather is superb; no wind and clear skies. The dog gets prepared and we have our trekking poles and bear spray ready. This is Grizzly bear territory!

We are now going for a steep walk up, with an elevation of 650 meters and seven switchbacks. My partner and I are going slow, now and then we are totally out of breath! The dog is running between the three of us, to see if nobody is staying behind.

Once up the mountain, the trail levels out and we arrive on an alpine plateau at 2360 meters. This is called Monica Meadows and it is just breathtaking!!! I have travelled all over the world and I have been very fortunate to witness the most beautiful places, but Monica Meadows is jaw-dropping! The bright colours of the larch trees are contrasting with the white of the fresh snow, the pristine alpine lakes with crystal clear water, the glacier peaks and mountain ranges on the horizon; it all makes it a complete magical wonderland. No other people, just silence.

My son continues the trail to the top of the mountain and finds another lake.

We would love to explore the mountain a bit further, but we still have to hike all the way back and drive the bumpy Glacier Creek Forest Service Road again. Definitely, a place to visit again! Maybe in summer, when all the wildflowers are blooming?