Hiking in between the volcanoes of the Garrotxa

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

Our neighbour in Begur told us about the fabulous hiking possibilities in the Natural Park of the Volcanic Zone of the Garrotxa. In between Olot and Santa Pau, some 40 dormant volcanic cones and more than 20 lava flows can be found. The last eruption occured about 11,000 years ago.

Today, the 7th of January, the perfect weather invites us for a long hike; a clear and sunny sky and cooler temperatures. We decide to take the circular route of around 15 km, with a height difference of 240 mt. It will bring us to Volcán de Santa Margarita and Volcán del Croscat.

Just outside Olot, direction Santa Pau, we park the car on a designated parking place. At this time of the year it is free parking. The information board tells us all about the different loops. The Natural Reserve covers a rough 120 km², which means there are many more starting points.

We fully enjoy our hike, as it is very divers! Pretty easy in the beginning, with marvellous views over different volcanoes in the far distance. Later, the wide path becomes smaller and goes steep up towards the extinct Santa Margarida Volcano. Ash layers are still visible in the walls of the cone. Nestled right inside the caldera, lies the Santa Margarida de Sacot Chapel. A very unusual but special place!

Leaving the volcano, the trail gets extremely narrow and brings us all the way down. We appreciate the beauty and stillness of the countryside. A totally different landscape lies in front of us, with here and there a ruin, a farmhouse and a small church.

 

Suddenly, we arrive in a beech wood forest that stands on the lava flow of the volcano Croscat. Here the sun-rays get plenty of chances to play around….

It is called La Fageda d’En Jordá and it always has been an inspiration for artists, such as Joan Maragall. He immortalized it in a poem, that gave the forest its fame;

The traveller on foot, entering this place

begins to slow his walk, counting his steps, in the great silence

he stops and hears nothing, and feels lost

A sweet oblivion of wordly things comes over him

in the silence of this profound place

and he thinks not of leaving

or he thinks in vain

he is a captive of La Fageda d’En Jordá 

a prisoner of the silence and the green

Oh, company

Oh, liberating prison

 

 

 

 

 

Day trip to Besalú, Banyoles and Castellfollit

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

Most visitors to the Costa Brava stay on the coast. They don’t realize that the inner country has so much more to offer. On the slopes of the Pyrenees, in the Garrotxa Natural Park, you will find many medieval towns, old volcanoes, lakes and wild rivers. Besalú is well-known for the stunning romanesque bridge over the river Fluvia. The small medieval town has strong Jewish influences and two romanesque churches. To enjoy the scenery and the views over the bridge, it is best to visit early!

Besalú

From Besalú it is only a short drive to one of the smallest towns in Catalonia; Castellfollit de la Roca. It is built on a 50-meter high clifftop and right at the crossing of the Fluvià and Toronell river.

There is not much to visit in the village itself, except the Romanesque Iglesia de Sant Salvador, located in a spectacular setting! From the centre, a hiking path brings you all the way down to the river. While standing on a small bridge, you see high above the houses and the church clinging to the edge of the basalt cliff. Very impressive!

Catellfollit de la Roca

Banyoles is our last stop for today. It changed into a bigger city, but the lake still kept it’s charm. Famous, as in 1992 the Olympic rowing races took place on the pristine waters. At this time of the year not much is happening, but it is a popular recreation area during the warmer months.

After a short stroll around, we decide to have a late lunch/early dinner. We are lucky to find an empty spot in one of the restaurants close to the lake side. They serve a delicious three-course menu with fish, including wine for 20 euro a person. After our meal, we witness the sun going down over the water and take some last pictures, before driving back to the coast.

Traditions during the holiday season in Cataluña

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

25th of December and 5th of January, 2023

One of my most vivid memories of the Christmas holidays in Cataluña, is the ‘pessebre vivent’ in Pals or the Living Nativity. As darkness falls, the medieval village comes alive for a couple of hours. Hundreds of visitors flock over the old cobblestone road.

On every corner of the street, the church square and the old market place, the inhabitants of Pals are representing Nativity scenes. Torches are illuminating the historic buildings. More than 200 participants are guiding the visitors through different passages of the old and new testament.

pessebre vivent Pals

Our children were very small, when we took them for the first time to the Christmas celebrations in Pals. I remember their glowing faces in the soft light of the street lanterns. Now, 30 years later, we see the same glow on the face of other people’s children. This time I don’t recognize any of the participants anymore; another generation replaced the older inhabitants of Pals. The event has grown bigger with more Nativity scenes. The only thing I miss are the donkeys!

Another important festivity for the children, is the arrival of The Three Kings or Los Reyes Magos on the 5th of January. Melchior, Balthazar and Caspar enter the town on their horses (or camels), late in the afternoon. In most big cities in Spain it is celebrated with a huge parade. Here, in ancient Begur, the ceremony is intimate. Candies are thrown to the children and in the early hours of the 6th of January, the Three Wise Men are leaving presents under the Christmas tree. The “clip clop” of the horses, the colourful costumes and the sound of the drums are just like a fairy tale. The decor of the 17th century ‘Església Parroquial de Sant Pere’ makes the story complete!

Hiking the Camino de Ronda on the Costa Brava

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

December, 2022

Tamariú is known for the lovely fish restaurants, but it is also the starting point of a fabulous two-hour hike. We park the car close to the bay and follow the coastal path. From time to time we look back to enjoy the view over the small fishing village.

At some point the trail stops and in front of us are enormous sea rocks. We carefully hop from one rock to the other and sometimes you need hand and feet! After the rocky part, a pine forest starts and from here a narrow winding path goes steep down and all the way up.

 

The coastal views are impressive and more towards the light house of San Sebastian, the rock formations become higher and higher. Maybe not a hike for very small children, but we, as seniors these days, are doing fine!

Until now, we only met two other hikers. This is why we love going to Spain during winter time!

Lighthouse San Sebastian

From the light house, the road continues to Llafranc, a very pretty fishing village with a gorgeous beach.

view from the lighthouse
Llafranc

After passing the promenade of Llafranc, the coastal trail brings us towards pictoresque Calella de Palafrugell. I fell in love with this gem a long time ago. Even in winter time many restaurants are still open, to welcome visitors from Barcelona, a few tourists and residents from the area.

We have an early supper outside, while the sun is slowly going down. The owner of the restaurant will order a taxi for us, as it will be too late to walk all the way back to Tamariú.

Another part of the Camino (or Cami) de Ronda starts at La Fosca, just North of Palamos. Over the past years many hiking trails are renewed and improved. Nowadays, people can enjoy hours of walking along the Mediterranean coast.

We arrive around 10.00 a.m. on the quiet car parking close to the beach. I don’t think I ever visited this secluded place and we are surprised to see a very pristine bay in front of us. A few people are swimming in the cold water and some others are sipping their morning coffee on a terrace.

La Fosca

After crossing the beach of La Fosca, the footpath starts towards Calella de Palafrugell. First you pass the ruined Castell de Sant Esteve de Mar, with views over the Roca Fosca, and then the loop continues to the fisherman’s village S’Alguer. The weather is perfect and the colorful houses are eye-catching!

Soon the path guides us through a pine and cork oak forest, with some steep climbs all the way up. Not many hikers are leaving the coast and we enjoy the stillness of the environment. Finally, the road joins the coastal trail again and Calella de Palafrugell is visible in the far distance.

The days are short this time of the year and we do hope to witness the sun going down on the beach of La Fosca. So it is time to return, and walk via another forest loop all the way back. Later in the afternoon, we treat ourselves on some tapas and a drink, while soaking up the last sunrays!

Returning to the Costa Brava in winter time

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

16th of December, 2022

It is time to go back to the Baix Emporda on the Costa Brava, Spain. Many years ago, Christmas was mostly celebrated at my parent’s house, just outside the medieval village of Pals. I always wanted to go back one time in the month of December, when the sky is deep blue and crystal clear. Even the sound of the wind through the pine trees is different in winter time. The sun is strong enough to enjoy the outdoors and the evenings are cold enough to get the fire place going.

Twice I went back alone and with my son for a week in February, but this time my partner and I rented a house for a month. It will give us plenty of time to see the many gems of the Costa Brava. Our rental place is conveniently situated just outside the charming town of Begur.

From here, we have easy access to the back country of the Empordá and to all the coastal treasures. For sure, I will show my partner all the favorite places I visited in the past. My blog covers already a few chapters about the Costa Brava. I am positive, we will also discover some new points of interest!

On the second day after our arrival, we are longing for a good hike. Although the two-day trip by car from The Netherlands to Spain went smooth, it is great to stretch the legs again! The 12 km trail starts from our house, then into Begur and all the way down to the tiny fishing village of Sa Tuna. I never walked this loop and the last time I was in Sa Tuna must have been around 30 years ago. We downloaded the route from Komoot on the phone, which is normally fairly accurate. Though they keep on building new houses and trails suddenly disappear! We manage to go all the 350 mts down and up again and I feel the first blister appearing! Never thought those new blister plasters would work so perfect. I will keep them in my backpack forever!

Sa Tuna

During the following days, we take it easy. We climb to the castle of Begur, visit the great local market of Toroella, hike the coastal road from Sa Riera to Cala de l’lla Roja, go back to the old house of my parents and sip wine in ‘La Vila’ in Pals.

Begur
Cala I’lla Roja
l’Ila Roja
Sa Riera

The weather is superb with temperatures in between 16 and 19 degrees Celsius! In 1984 we had snow around Christmas and minus 10 degrees!!! We are looking forward to the Christmas celebrations in Pals and the traditions on the 5th of January!

Mullerthal trail and wine town Saarburg

by prey1, posted in Europe, Luxembourg

September, 2022

Our next trip brings us to the stunning medieval Beaufort Castle in the Mullerthal. It was built in three different periods, between 1150 and 1650. The neighbouring Renaissance castle, dates from the 17th century and can only be visited on a guided tour. This is also the starting point of various hikes, which are one of the leading quality trails of Europe! To choose which hike is best is not easy, but we don’t regret our choice; B1, which is a 10 km loop and will take us around three hours to complete.

In comparison with all the other hikes we undertook in Luxembourg, this one is pretty easy, as the sloops are gentle with no steep climbs. It is also by far the most impressive loop. Grandiose nature with majestic sandstone rock formations, many species of mosses, wild vegetation and small water courses. We hike through crevices and the last half an hour along a fast moving stream.

Mullerthal Trail
B1 Mullerthal Trail
Mullerthal

As always, our trip lasts longer than expected. Not that we are slow, but we take too many pictures! After arriving back, there is just enough time for a quick tour over the castle grounds. In the small Dutch owned hostel on the other side of the road, we grab a nice cold beer, before heading back to Lenningen.

Beaufort Castle
Beaufort Castle

Luxembourg is great for hiking, but the towns lack some atmosphere and are not as quaint as the German cities and villages. Time to go over the border! We cross the nearest bridge and are in Germany. After a quick and scenic 17 km drive, we arrive in Saarburg, situated along the river Saar. It was founded more than 1050 years ago by Siegfried, Earl of Luxembourg. People also call the town “Little Venice”, as many water ways run through it. There is even a waterfall going almost 20 meters down!

Saarburg waterfall
Saarburg
Saar river

As soon as we enter the old centre, we notice it is the weekend of the famous wine festival! The Saar valley is known for the production of many great Mosel wines. Three days long Saarburg is celebrating the coming harvest. Wine stalls are present in the main street, a parade takes place and of course the coronation of the Saar-Obermosel Wine Queen.

Like everybody else, we first buy two glasses. Those will be filled with a lovely Mosel wine. You keep the glasses, while walking through the wine street. There is music on different corners and many people are flocking together. We just go with the flow and it doesn’t take long, before the big Parade is making it’s way through the main street. Wine is now all over the place! Just hold your glass and it will be topped up!!! Dionysos himself is also present; God of the grape-harvest, wine making, vegetation, fertility and festivity.

Although the wines are very tasty, it is time to grab a bite and do some more exploring of the surroundings of town. A wise decision, as the many eateries will soon be occupied by all the other visitors.

At the end of the day, we walk high up to the ruins of the Castle, towering over the river Saar. Burg Saarburg was built by Siegfried in 964. It is one of the oldest castles of Germany. The last steps to the panoramic platform are to steep for me, but not for my partner!

Luxembourg city and charming Echternach

by prey1, posted in Europe, Luxembourg

September, 2022

After a few days of hiking, it is time to soak up some culture in the cities. In Luxembourg, public transport is free and easy. From Lenningen we get to the nearest terminus and hop on the train to the capital. The central station is on walking distance from the centre of town. Today will be very hot and perfect to visit one of the many museums. It will be nice to have some air conditioning! Around the station many renovations are taking place and we didn’t expect to see all these beggars!

The town is divided in high and low. It is not really a place for old people, although there is an elevator to go from down town to high town.

There are a couple of museums with a similar name and it makes things rather complicated! We walk all the way down in the heat to discover, that we arrive at the National Museum of Natural and History. Wrong one! Our goal is Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art, which is in the upper city. It means we have to climb all the way up again (in the heat). Supposingly, there is also a City History Museum, to make it even more complicated!

Our museum has a permanent collection about the town’s development, on the 5 lower levels. The temporary exhibits are on the higher levels. The entrance for the permanent exhibit is free. There is so much to see, that we will go back later in the week for the current exhibition: ‘Iran between times’, ‘Luxembourg’s colonial past’ and ‘The Rape of Europe’ (on Putin’s Russia), from artist Maxim Kantor.

The lower levels are underground and the combination of modern and old flows together in this very interesting museum!

Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art
Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art
Iran Alfred Seiland
Max Kantor

 

Echternach is the second and oldest city we are visiting during our stay. It is situated in the famous Mullerthal region or ‘Little Switzerland’. In summer the town is probably overloaded with arriving and departing tourist buses, but now in september it is quiet again. We take our time to explore and admire the many medieval buildings. In the Romanesque Basilica, the tomb of Saint Willibrord, the patron saint of Luxembourg, is visible in the crypt.

The Musée de L’Abbaye is situated in the vaulted basement of the former Benedictine monastery. It offers a very interesting facsimiles collection of many impressive manuscripts, created in the scriptorium. Furthermore, there are various artifacts in relation to Saint Willibrord (founder of the Abbey in the 7th century) and the history of Luxembourg. All displayed in a stunning decor!

Musée de l’Abbaye Echternach
l’Abbaye Echternach
Musée de l’Abbaye Echternach
Musée de l’Abbaye Echternach

We stroll through the park and discover the bridge over the river Sauer, which connects Luxembourg with Germany. The old customs (zoll) house reminds of former times, when crossing the borders was more complicated!

Echternach
Echternach

Later in the afternoon, we walk to one of the quaint squares, for a glass of wine (or two) and some delicious ‘flammkuchen’.

 

Three cats and La Moselle in Luxembourg.

by prey1, posted in Europe, Luxembourg

23rd of August, 2022

Our next house and cat sit is in Lenningen, a tiny village in southern Luxembourg. The area is surrounded by vineyards and the river La Moselle is on walking distance. It is a perfect place to discover the many hiking trails, visit the capital Luxembourg and drive across the bridge to Germany.

view on Ehnen

The cats only visit us when they are hungry, or when they find it necessary to offer a gift. That will be a mouse, dead or alive and preferable under the dining table. Sometimes we don’t see them for one or two days. The moment I start worrying, they show up again, finish their bowls of food and disappear to one of the bedrooms. I think they see us as a nuisance….

The river La Moselle takes it’s source at a height of 735 meters, on the slopes of the Vosges and flows into the Rhine at Koblenz. The banks of the river are covered with vineyards.

The most popular hikes are called “Traumschleife” or “Dream Loops”.  We start with the ‘Wine and Nature Path Palmberg’. It begins at the village of Ahn, famous for the 11 wine houses. The 9 km trail goes straight up, through different wineries, along a small river with jungle-like scenery and offers panoramic views. The height difference is around 313 meters. It ends at winery Jeff Konsbrück; the perfect spot to relax with a glass of delicious white wine, some bites, and a view over the village.

Our second “Traumschleife” is the Mantenacher Fiels and we fully enjoy this 9.6 km loop with a height difference of 275 meters. We pass wild streams, old bridges and enormous rock formations.

At times, the path becomes narrow and steep. Once we arrive on a plateau of farmland, the landscape changes from lushy green to golden yellow. The next moment we enter a small vineyard on the lower level and a private weekend cabin in the middle of nowhere. Finally, we arrive back at the Nature Conservation Centre ‘A Wiewesh’ in Manternach. On the terrace some refreshments are waiting and also a sample of the Mantenacher white wine. You don’t get a bill; just pay a fair price and put the coins in a box!

The third Traumschleife is called ‘Schengen Without Borders’. In this small village on the south-eastern site of Luxembourg, the borders of France, Germany and Luxembourg meet. In 1985 the famous Schengen Agreement was signed on a river cruise ship. On the 19th of June 1990, the Convention for the concrete implementation of this agreement was supplemented. It meant border-free travel within European member countries. The local museum gives an insight into this historical event.

Schengen
Schengen
Schengen

Our 8.5 km loop starts at the Tourist Information Centre. We have to climb the Stromberg and the height difference will be around 330 meters. Although it is a pretty steep hike, our effort will be rewarded with a stunning view over the river Moselle!

Schengen
Schengen