16th and 17th of February, 2019
Today is time to visit Palamos. The first thing I notice is the change of the roads. While driving towards Palafrugell, the road becomes a highway with a speedlimit of 100 km. Wow, that was different 20 years ago! Also, there is Palafrugell North and Palafrugell South. What happened to the small market town? In no time I enter Palamos and follow the parking signs to The Playa. I don’t recognize anything anymore. It’s an enormous city in comparison with the small fishing town, tucked away in my brain.
It’s very busy at the playa and all the parking places are taken, so I return to the centre, where I find the very last empty spot. My lucky day again! Once at the harbour, I notice why it is so busy. There is the Optimist International Regatta with 550 participants from 29 nations! Today they have a day off, at least this morning, as there is no wind at all.
Wonderful to see all the small boats on the beach, while their crew is hanging around, waiting for the wind to pick up.
I spend quite a while walking around the different harbours and remember how it was 30 years ago. I realize I am getting old(er). In the far end you see Playa d’Aro and San Feliu, an area I rather avoid these days.
The lively old centre of Palamos is situated a bit higher and more peaceful than down the playa.
By lunchtime I have enough of busy Palamos and drive home. This afternoon, I go hiking in the woods, where we always spent so much time walking our dog………
On Sunday, my goal is Begur and Tamariu. Begur, with the old remains of the castle towering over the town. Definitely worth the small climb, as from there you can see the coastline with the Islas Medas, the Pyrenees, the old town and the lushy back country. It’s very windy today (as most of the days now in February) and difficult to make a steady video!
View over Playa de Pals
View on the Castle in Begur
View over the Pyrenees from Begur
Also Begur is growing, but I do hope that most of the green area is protected and that one day they will stop expanding.
In the old centre, I find an empty place on the best known terrace (Bar de Placa) in town. Right under the bells of the church. Never go and live in Begur, as they cling every 15 minutes very loud!
From Begur you can take a small coastal road to the small fishing village of Tamariu. At least in Tamariu, time stood still. A cozy place with a row of fish restaurants surrounding the beach. All open on this cold, but sunny sunday and while the parents are sipping their wine, the children are having fun on the beach. This reminds me of our life in Greece! We used to spend our Sundays like that. Going with friends to the taverne on the beach and sit there for hours, while our children were keeping themselves occupied.
calamares a la plancha in restaurant Rodondo
sea-urchins in restaurant Rodondo
I choose the restaurant Rodondo for my birthday meal. Finally, I get my favorite dish again; calamares a la plancha! The people next to me have sea-urchins for starters and I ask them if I can make a picture of the dish. Immediately, they shovel one on my plate. I do have to taste it! There is not much meat in it, but the taste is good and the important thing is (according to the guy), that it has the ‘sabor del mar’ (‘taste of the sea’…)
After my lunch I go hiking on the rocky track along the coast. The first part is a bit a challenge and you have to look for the signs red-white, but later it becomes a real path. A nice track with gorgeous view over the coast. Later this week, I hope to start from the other side at Llafranc and Callela de Palafrugell and then visit the lighthouse of San Sebastian.
Follow this sign
The rocky path