Tag: Begur Spain

Traditions during the holiday season in Cataluña

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

25th of December and 5th of January, 2023

One of my most vivid memories of the Christmas holidays in Cataluña, is the ‘pessebre vivent’ in Pals or the Living Nativity. As darkness falls, the medieval village comes alive for a couple of hours. Hundreds of visitors flock over the old cobblestone road.

On every corner of the street, the church square and the old market place, the inhabitants of Pals are representing Nativity scenes. Torches are illuminating the historic buildings. More than 200 participants are guiding the visitors through different passages of the old and new testament.

pessebre vivent Pals

Our children were very small, when we took them for the first time to the Christmas celebrations in Pals. I remember their glowing faces in the soft light of the street lanterns. Now, 30 years later, we see the same glow on the face of other people’s children. This time I don’t recognize any of the participants anymore; another generation replaced the older inhabitants of Pals. The event has grown bigger with more Nativity scenes. The only thing I miss are the donkeys!

Another important festivity for the children, is the arrival of The Three Kings or Los Reyes Magos on the 5th of January. Melchior, Balthazar and Caspar enter the town on their horses (or camels), late in the afternoon. In most big cities in Spain it is celebrated with a huge parade. Here, in ancient Begur, the ceremony is intimate. Candies are thrown to the children and in the early hours of the 6th of January, the Three Wise Men are leaving presents under the Christmas tree. The “clip clop” of the horses, the colourful costumes and the sound of the drums are just like a fairy tale. The decor of the 17th century ‘Església Parroquial de Sant Pere’ makes the story complete!

Returning to the Costa Brava in winter time

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

16th of December, 2022

It is time to go back to the Baix Emporda on the Costa Brava, Spain. Many years ago, Christmas was mostly celebrated at my parent’s house, just outside the medieval village of Pals. I always wanted to go back one time in the month of December, when the sky is deep blue and crystal clear. Even the sound of the wind through the pine trees is different in winter time. The sun is strong enough to enjoy the outdoors and the evenings are cold enough to get the fire place going.

Twice I went back alone and with my son for a week in February, but this time my partner and I rented a house for a month. It will give us plenty of time to see the many gems of the Costa Brava. Our rental place is conveniently situated just outside the charming town of Begur.

From here, we have easy access to the back country of the Empordá and to all the coastal treasures. For sure, I will show my partner all the favorite places I visited in the past. My blog covers already a few chapters about the Costa Brava. I am positive, we will also discover some new points of interest!

On the second day after our arrival, we are longing for a good hike. Although the two-day trip by car from The Netherlands to Spain went smooth, it is great to stretch the legs again! The 12 km trail starts from our house, then into Begur and all the way down to the tiny fishing village of Sa Tuna. I never walked this loop and the last time I was in Sa Tuna must have been around 30 years ago. We downloaded the route from Komoot on the phone, which is normally fairly accurate. Though they keep on building new houses and trails suddenly disappear! We manage to go all the 350 mts down and up again and I feel the first blister appearing! Never thought those new blister plasters would work so perfect. I will keep them in my backpack forever!

Sa Tuna

During the following days, we take it easy. We climb to the castle of Begur, visit the great local market of Toroella, hike the coastal road from Sa Riera to Cala de l’lla Roja, go back to the old house of my parents and sip wine in ‘La Vila’ in Pals.

l’Ila Roja
Begur
Cala I’lla Roja
Sa Riera

The weather is superb with temperatures in between 16 and 19 degrees Celsius! In 1984 we had snow around Christmas and minus 10 degrees!!! We are looking forward to the Christmas celebrations in Pals and the traditions on the 5th of January!

The change of Palamos into a big coastal town……

by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

16th and 17th of February, 2019

Today is time to visit Palamos. The first thing I notice is the change of the roads. While driving towards Palafrugell, the road becomes a highway with a speedlimit of 100 km. Wow, that was different 20 years ago! Also, there is Palafrugell North and Palafrugell South. What happened to the small market town? In no time I enter Palamos and follow the parking signs to The Playa. I don’t recognize anything anymore. It’s an enormous city in comparison with the small fishing town, tucked away in my brain.

It’s very busy at the playa and all the parking places are taken, so I return to the centre, where I find the very last empty spot. My lucky day again! Once at the harbour, I notice why it is so busy. There is the Optimist International Regatta with 550 participants from 29 nations! Today they have a day off, at least this morning, as there is no wind at all.

Wonderful to see all the small boats on the beach, while their crew is hanging around, waiting for the wind to pick up.

I spend quite a while walking around the different harbours and remember how it was 30 years ago. I realize I am getting old(er). In the far end you see Playa d’Aro and San Feliu, an area I rather avoid these days.

Palamos Harbour
Palamos
Palamos Harbour
Palamos
Palamos Harbour

The lively old centre of Palamos is situated a bit higher and more peaceful than down the playa.

By lunchtime I have enough of busy Palamos and drive home. This afternoon, I go hiking in the woods, where we always spent so much time walking our dog………

On Sunday, my goal is Begur and Tamariu. Begur, with the old remains of the castle towering over the town. Definitely worth the small climb, as from there you can see the coastline with the Islas Medas, the Pyrenees, the old town and the lushy back country. It’s very windy today (as most of the days now in February) and difficult to make a steady video!

Begur
View over Playa de Pals
Begur
birthdaygirl
Begur
View on the Castle in Begur
View over the Pyrenees from Begur
Begur
Begur
Begur
Begur

Also Begur is growing, but I do hope that most of the green area is protected and that one day they will stop expanding.

In the old centre, I find an empty place on the best known terrace (Bar de Placa) in town. Right under the bells of the church. Never go and live in Begur, as they cling every 15 minutes very loud!

From Begur you can take a small coastal road to the small fishing village of Tamariu. At least in Tamariu, time stood still. A cozy place with a row of fish restaurants surrounding the beach. All open on this cold, but sunny sunday and while the parents are sipping their wine, the children are having fun on the beach. This reminds me of our life in Greece! We used to spend our Sundays like that. Going with friends to the taverne on the beach and sit there for hours, while our children were keeping themselves occupied.

calamares a la plancha in restaurant Rodondo
restaurant Rodondo
sea-urchins in restaurant Rodondo

I choose the restaurant Rodondo for my birthday meal. Finally, I get my favorite dish again; calamares a la plancha! The people next to me have sea-urchins for starters and I ask them if I can make a picture of the dish. Immediately, they shovel one on my plate. I do have to taste it! There is not much meat in it, but the taste is good and the important thing is (according to the guy), that it has the ‘sabor del mar’ (‘taste of the sea’…)

After my lunch I go hiking on the rocky track along the coast. The first part is a bit a challenge and you have to look for the signs red-white, but later it becomes a real path. A nice track with gorgeous view over the coast. Later this week, I hope to start from the other side at Llafranc and Callela de Palafrugell and then visit the lighthouse of San Sebastian.

Tamariu beach
Follow this sign
The rocky path
Tamariu