Highway 99 from Lillooet via Squamish to Vancouver

June 2023

In the afternoon, we leave Lillooet and follow highway 99 up in the mountains. The road is known as one of the most beautiful drives in the world! At times, pretty narrow and curvy, but the views are one of a kind. Deep down we see the emerald coloured Seton Lake Reservoir and the next moment it feels like driving through a gorge. Impressive mountain ranges are bordering the ‘Sea to Sky’ highway.

On various occasions, we stop the car to take pictures and admire the panorama.

From Lillooet to Squamish

Our destination for today is Squamish, a town which was developed during the construction of the Pacific Great Eastern Railway in 1910.

The indigenous Squamish people lived already for thousands of years in this area and are still living here.

Our hotel for the night is the Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company. Very conveniently located on walking distance of downtown, and with views over the rock formations in the harbour.

Squamish Harbour

The next morning, we are leaving on time, as there will be plenty of stops on our way to Vancouver. Although we both never have been to Whistler, we decide to skip this very touristic town. Instead, we will visit Horseshoe Bay and Cypress Park.

Some very informative indigenous kiosks are situated along the highway. They tell you interesting stories about the Squamish Nation.

Horseshoe Bay is a quaint seaside village, full of action, as it is the terminal for BC Ferries. From here, boats are leaving to Bowen Island, Nanaimo on Vancouver Island and to other destinations.

Horseshoe Bay

In town there are plenty of gift shops, small (take-out) restaurants and art galleries.

We didn’t regret our visit, as the vistas over the harbour, the mountains, and the islands are striking!

Our next pause is Cypress Park, on the other side of highway 99.  An area with forests of fir, hemlock, and yellow cypress and an active wildlife! It is possible to drive the car all the way up the mountain, until you reach the Alpine ski facilities. From this point many loops are starting.

Even though it is nearly summer, some last patches of snow are visible!

Our hike is short, but enjoyable, and it gives us a fantastic view over the archipelago and Vancouver.

View from Cypress Park

This is the last stop, before we reach Vancouver, where we will spend our last two days of this amazing trip!

View from Cypress Park over Vancouver

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lillooet, a diverse community on the Fraser River

June 2023

There are two ways to drive from Salmon Arm to Vancouver. If not in a hurry, don’t go on highway 1. Take route 97 from Cache Creek and continue on the 99. You will not regret it!

After Kamloops, we enter an empty country. Finally, we pass the old miner’s town Cache Creek and drive into Marble Canyon Provincial Park. The mountains change from colour and shape constantly, and the road is extremely quiet.

At some point, the climbing route joins the Fraser River. Immediately, we stop the car to admire the gorge and the wild flowing waters.

Finally, we continue on highway 99, until we reach our destination; Lillooet (pronounce it as ‘little wet’).

This is the unceded ancestral lands of three Nations, Líl̓wat Nation, the St’at’imc Nation, and the Tŝilhqot’in Nation.

Tsuwalhkálh ti tmícwa (the land is ours).

It is rugged and incredible beautiful!

Where there’s nothing to come between you and the remembering, that you too are made up of wind and fire, earth and water.

We booked a small but lovely accommodation for one night. It is called Comfort Zone B & B. Our landlady is also Dutch and very helpful and welcoming. She gives us some great suggestions; hiking to the old bridge and visiting the winery.

End of the afternoon we explore the main street, and it feels like a reflection of a Western movie.

In 1860 Lillooet was a very large city, and part of the route to the Cariboo gold fields.

Nowadays, it is a small town, but still significant. In particular, for its agricultural abundance, the fishing for trout, salmon and sturgeon, the indigenous art and the cultural heritage.

Lillooet is also called Jade town. In the past and even today, jade can be discovered on the shores of the rivers and in the surrounding mountains.

There are cute stores, a wonderful artisan bakery and a variety of restaurants. The former Anglican church, St. Mary’s the Virgin, is transformed into a museum. Definitely worth a visit, as the building has old machinery, indigenous artefacts, gold mining relics and an old newspaper office.

The next morning, after our breakfast, we walk to the old suspension bridge. It seems that the osprey (fish eagle) is having a nest on the steel construction of the bridge. Even a webcam is present to follow the activity!

Although my phone takes great pictures, I never could have captured the birds, without my 60 times zoom camera.

Besides the bird’s nest, we admire the construction of the bridge and the outstanding views over the Fraser River.

After, we slowly stroll back into town, visit some stores, the museum, and witness a get-together of indigenous people and other locals. They all sing and dance together in front of the museum.

On our way out of town, we decide to visit the winery (owned by a Dutch couple), and have a small bite and a glass of wine on the terrace. The views from here over the vineyard, river, and mountains are impressive.

A deer is grazing in the garden and even the mountain bluebird is flying around!

It is nearly time to continue our trip towards Squamish, where we booked a room for one night.

Lillooet stole our heart. On another occasion, we do hope to return to this beautiful spot on the banks of the Fraser River.

” In this lash and spill of water, in the slow grinding of rock and cliff, in the perpetual slide of mountain and forest, in the erosion of mountain and gumbo rangeland, in the impact of whirlpool and winter ice, the river is forever mad, ravenous and lonely ”       

Bruce Hutchinson    ‘ The Fraser ‘

 

A house sit in Salmon Arm on Shuswap Lake

June 2023.

A few weeks ago, I found a great house and pet sit for 6 days, in Salmon Arm on Shuswap Lake. The place is located West of Revelstoke and we haven’t been in that area yet. The drive will take around 4 to 5 hours from my son’s place in the Kootenays. For the first night, we found a nice Airbnb, just outside Salmon Arm.

We decide to take the small Hwy 31, towards the ferry in Galena Bay. It is an amazing two-hour drive right through the wilderness, via a gravel road. The only other vehicle we pass is a log truck. Thank goodness, it happens just in a wider stretch of the road! We expected to see some more bears, but we only saw a wild turkey with her chicks.

After the ferry brings us from Galena Bay to Shelter Bay, on the other side of Upper Arrow Lake, we continue driving in direction Revelstoke. Entering the Trans-Canadian highway, we turn left. It is an easy drive to our destination, with panoramic views.

Our Airbnb is called “The Shaw Shack”. A spacious, clean and quiet apartment with a lovely garden. Definitely, a place we would like to go back to, on another occasion in the future.

Salmon Arm is situated on Shuswap Lake, with more than 400 kilometers of shoreline. This is the land of the Secwépemc people; “the spread-out people”.

Shuswap region is the heart of the traditional territories of the Secwépemc; “the meeting of the waters”.

Just before the rendezvous with owners and pets of our house sit, we quickly drive into town, to get a glimpse of the impressive lake.

The lovely house is located just outside Salmon Arm and has a very long driveway. There are trails into the woods from the back garden and there is an inviting sandy (dog) beach close by. Perfect, as we get some very hot days!

The pets are just adorable, and the cat loves to play hide and seek. We take the dog on different hikes to various impressive waterfalls. In some areas, like the Syphon Falls, the mosquitos are pretty annoying!

We stroll over the longest inland wharf in North-America, admire the wetlands and go wine tasting at Sunnybrae Vineyards.

The Salmon Arm Bay Nature Enhancement Area is great for wildlife viewing!

The six days are gone in no-time! Maybe one day, we can return to this wonderful house sit!

Our next leg of this trip is bringing us to Lillooet, a gem on the banks of the Fraser River.

 

 

Exploring Meadow Mountain and the Lardeau Valley

June 2023

Although we would have loved to climb to Monica Meadows again (see my other blog post), it is not possible due to the snow covered mountain. We try Meadow Mountain instead. The pickup truck of my son brings us high up, until we reach the first snow. From here, we can go by foot. The trail is wide and not too steep.

It seems we are the first persons to walk up Meadow Mountain after the winter. And it is June!!! No other footprints, and in the refuge higher up are still the unopened beer cans of last year present. In the winter, this is a perfect snowmobiling area. No ski lifts available!

Refuge on Meadow Mountain BC

The dog enjoys these unexpected patches of snow! It feels weird to walk in shorts on the white stuff.

My son makes a lot of noise by shouting and clapping in his hands, on every curve of the trail. This is grizzly bear territory, and you should always stay alert.

In the same area we did see a black bear the other day, just down the road!

 

 

Our days in the Lardeau Valley are filled with activity. We show my daughter all the favorite hiking and sightseeing spots from our last visit in 2021. We even swim in the freezing waters of Kootenay Glacier Lake and go on a kayak and canoe trip.

While on the pristine waters, alone in your boat, you reconnect with nature.

Kootenay Lake

During the very warm days, we take the dog for a swim in Duncan Lake. This is a man-made reservoir and around 45 kilometers in length! The temperatures are way higher than Kootenay Lake.

Ten days living the Canadian way with barbecues, camp fires (still possible in June) and enjoying wild life.

Finally, my daughter hops on the bus in Kaslo, which will bring her back to Vancouver. We prepare for a 5-day house sit in Salmon Arm, conveniently situated on the way to the coast.

 

 

From Vancouver to Kaslo and beyond

June, 2023

The month of June is perfect for a visit to my son, who lives close to the slopes of the Purcell mountain range in Canada. Temperatures are still moderate and no threats of wildfires yet in this part of British Columbia.

In September 2021, we flew from Amsterdam to Calgary and started there our journey to the Kootenays. This time we booked a ticket to Vancouver, where we reserved our rental car and a one night stay close to the airport. My daughter, who lives in Australia, will join us to visit her brother. It is great to see her again after one year and we are all excited to go on this road trip.

Vancouver early morning

Due to our jetlag we wake up at 4.00 a.m. and our first stop is Tim Hortons on the next corner. Very convenient, as they are open 24 hours of the day. We grab a coffee and their famous bagel with cream cheese! Just before the traffic gets too dense, we leave the city behind us and prepare for a long drive in the car.

The scenery is getting interested in the vicinity of Hope, a community surrounded by two important rivers, a mountain range and a canyon. It is also the centre of many highways and we go from here east, towards the Kootenays. Driving in Canada is never boring, as the impressive landscape changes constantly.

From Merritt we drive to Kelowna, situated in the Okanagan valley. Wineries thrive here, due to the mild climate. Also a perfect stop to get some last groceries in and our wine supply!

We leave this bustling town and follow the quiet highway towards Vernon, where we turn right direction Needles. Lumby, a cute small village, is our last opportunity to have lunch, as after, we are entering “nowhere land”. The road is getting smaller, very peaceful and is surrounded by woodland. It will end at the cable ferry, which will bring us to Fauquier, on the other side of Lower Arrow Lake.

Just before we reach Needles, we notice a young wolf in the field beside the road! We immediately stop the car and open the window. I even get out of the car and the wolf just keeps on wandering around. I can see he is holding a small prey. So beautiful to watch this!

The ferry leaves every half an hour and brings us in less than 10 minutes to the other side of the lake. We try to soak in all the views, as this is a beautiful part of Canada!

Lower Arrow Lake

Our drive continues along the lake to Nakusp. Last time, we arrived from the northern route (see blog Canada September 2021).  The final part of this long drive will take around two hours, as it is still a 135 km distance. Barely any traffic on the winding road, with stunning views over lakes and fast streaming rivers.

Suddenly, we see a cute black bear enjoying the green grasses right at the side of the road!!! It is not impressed with the attention we show. He (or she) just keeps on eating, although we park the car right in front of him.

Around 6.oo p.m. we arrive at my son’s place in the Lardeau Valley, a remote mountainous area of around 6 communities and roughly 400 residents.

His dog is already waiting on the long drive way. It feels like coming home!

Villeneuve-sur-Lot, Château de Biron and more

January, 2023

This house sit is indeed special. Every day we explore the grounds and find more hidden corners and even a small chapel!

Junior the cat, still avoids her mother. Though she sits on our lap, likes to be stroked and feels safe in our presence!

The cleaning lady comes twice a week and we get french lessons from her. She just loves to talk and talks fast! On occasions we totally miss the conversation, but who cares!

We get our bread from the boulangerie (bakery) in Duravel. If the bakery is closing, they bring their ‘leftovers’ to the tobacco store. The last place where we would look for bread!

Even in winter time there is plenty to discover in the Lot and Dordogne region.

I am not really prepared for the cold weather, therefor we decide to go to Villeneuve-sur-Lot to buy some warmer clothes. We finally spend more time exploring this lively medieval city, instead of shopping! I do buy a nice warm coat. (No, no fur!)

 

 

 

 

Villeneuve-sur-Lot, founded in 1253, was once an important trading town. In former times, a fortified wall, six towers and eight gates surrounded the city. The Porte de Paris and the Porte de Pujols are still there. We admire some important landmarks; Le Pont Vieux (the old bridge), from the 13th century, Place Lafayette (where the open market takes place) and Notre-Dame du Bout du Pont Chapel, dedicated to the mariners. The remarkable red brick Sainte-Catherine Church was built in Romano-Byzantine style and finished in 1937. Somewhere in an old facade, we notice a huge picture of Brigit Bardot and Serge Gainsbourg.

In the Dordogne department we visit the 12th century Château de Biron. Once of important military significance and nowadays a popular tourist attraction. The Gontaut Biron family owned it for 24 generations, until 1978, when it was sold to the State. It consists of a diversity of buildings and normally it is open for the public, but not now in January!

Just outside the gates is a hamlet of a few very old houses and a church.

Chateau de Biron

According to Biron’s legends, Charles de Biron was beheaded in the courtyard of the Bastille in the 17th century. He was suspected of plotting against King Henri IV!

The Komoot app shows us great hiking possibilities. We decide to undertake a diverse three hour walking tour in between two villages. Via a scenic drive over a curvy road, we arrive at Blanquefort-sur-Briolance. The surrounding fields and forests are still covered with a small layer of snow. This makes the trail very slippery and at some point I am stretched out in the mud! Also, nowhere a bench to rest and not one café open in the two small communities! Still, we fully enjoy the different loops through open fields, along small streams and dense forests.

Our winter stay in France is one to remember. Quiet roads, no busy marketplaces, no queues in the supermarket, at times pretty cold, but often with crystal clear skies! Above all, plenty of opportunities to enjoy the peaceful scenery, good food and great local wines!

The monuments of Sarlat la Canéda

January 2023,

It feels good to be back in the Lot department. The busy market in Prayssac is still there and the home made chicken has the same delicious taste. I show my partner some interesting places and we even go back to my former house sit in Frayssinet-le-Gélat. The owner asks if we can look after the cat for a couple of weeks, after the chateau sit? Maybe next time? I can’t resist a quick hike to the desolated chateau, just outside the village. This time covered with a thin layer of snow!

It is nice to explore some new places too. For example, the gorgeous town Sarlat-la-Canéda, just across the Dordogne river. In the summer this place is overwhelmed by tourists, but today we are together with the locals.

We choose a sunny day for this visit and it takes us around one hour by car to get there. It is said that Sarlat has the highest concentration of monuments per square meter in the world!

Saint Marie Church, with the huge steel door, is converted into a covered market and cultural centre. The Gothic structure has plenty of new elements inside the building.

Sainte Marie Church Sarlat

Statues, a chapel, the Carolingian abbey, spooky old mansions and cobbled streets are all part of this interesting town, where history goes back to the 11th century!

Besides the historical highlights, there are plenty of stores with regional products; walnuts, chestnuts, black truffles, foie gras, porcini mushrooms and so much more. Market day in Sarlat is famous and well visited. Today we enjoy our peaceful stroll through the ancients streets, drink coffee outside in the winter sun and have a tasty lunch in one of the many restaurants.

Sarlat la Canéda, the capital of the Périgord Noir, is a treasure!

House and cat sitting in a château in France

January, 2023

Our winter holiday will be extended, as we get an unexpected opportunity to house and cat sit in a château in Southern France. A couple of years ago, I also had a ‘sit’ in the same area and I love to go back. We drive straight from the Costa Brava to a small village in the vicinity of Puys L’Eveque and enter the long driveway towards the old and impressive mansion. The landlord welcomes us with a very tasty supper and he gives us a tour over the grounds and through the different buildings. Later in the evening, we try to find our bedroom, but we get lost immediately!

Early in the morning, our host is leaving and for the next two weeks we have the responsibility to look after two cats and 19 bedrooms! We live mainly in the kitchen, which is heated by a separate unit. Temperatures will not reach over 17 degrees Celsius, but with a few sweaters on and a cat on your lap it is warm enough. My partner finally gets the huge fireplace in the kitchen going, but it doesn’t give us any heat.

The wood stove in the living room works great, so by the time supper is finished, we switch rooms.

The cats are mother and daughter, but it turns out that the little girl is afraid of mum; she is most of the time hiding behind the books in the library. Mum goes wherever we go; she follows us in the garden and sits close to us in the kitchen.

Our huge bedroom has tall windows with amazing views over the river Lot. It feels like living on the water. The weather changes and the river changes too. Instead of calm flowing waters, the river gets wild and noisy!

marble stairway

After the rain, we get snow! This will happen only a few times in the winter, according to some locals. It changes the grounds into a winter wonderland. The rooms are getting colder too. To reach our bedroom, we have to climb enormous marble stairs and pass the music room. Nothing is heated, except our bedroom and bathroom. I try to play the piano, but my fingers get frozen!!!

On one of these mornings, the sun suddenly comes out and the wind is waving the grasses bordering the river Lot. My partner looks out of our bedroom window and sees a kingfisher rapidly flying along the waters. The bright blue wings are glittering in the sunlight. I quickly grab my camera and open the window. Our room is situated high above the water and my presence doesn’t disturb the kingfisher. Maybe not 100% clear, but I am able to get this beautiful creature on camera.

Although it is winter time, we fully enjoy the experience of looking after this huge mansion. It also gives us time to explore more of the Lot area and discover other medieval villages.