Pals Spain Archives - ladygoingplaces

Some last impressions of the Costa Brava

July 31, 2023 by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

January, 2023

One whole month we explored the Costa Brava and fully enjoyed the winter weather, the scenery, the culture, the hikes and the food! During these last days we combine nice hikes with good local food and I will mention a few of our favorite restaurants. In winter time some popular eateries are closing their doors for a long holiday, but there was still enough choice.

Early one morning we hike in the woods behind Masos de Pals. It is still cold and misty and slowly some sunrays are trying to lighten the trees.

We continue our hike to Restaurant Mar Blau at Platja El Racó. This is the only place at the beach open during the winter months and always busy. Today it is time for Paëlla!

From the centre of Pals we discover a trail which brings us via a tunnel all the way to the other side of the main road.

It is circular road through the woods and on the way back we walk over an old rocky riverbed. It is a hike of around 2,5 km, but with an elevation of 230 mts. You will be rewarded with a stunning panoramic 360 degree view over Masos de Pals, Pals and Regencos!

Once back in Pals, it is time to go for lunch. Can Bassalis in Masos de Pals is a Hostal-Restaurant run by the family. It is pretty basic, but the food and house wine are great value! They serve a three-course menu for 13 euro, including the wine.

If you like snails, then go to Ca La Teresa in Pals. A very popular restaurant among the locals with a menu to choose from.

La Vila, on the square, at the entrance of the ancient town centre, is our favorite tapas bar. The perfect spot to catch some winter sun and enjoy homemade tapas and wine of the region.

Tapas

On a Tuesday we visit the huge market in Palamos. If you need clothes and want some bargains, then this is the place to be! Combine shopping with a stroll along the promenade and a tasty lunch. There are plenty of eateries! At the end of the afternoon, the fishing boats are returning to the harbour and the fish auction starts.

Palamos

Many people travel to the Costa Brava only for the beach, but the coastline and the backcountry are offering so much more.

We will return!

Traditions during the holiday season in Cataluña

April 1, 2023 by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

25th of December and 5th of January, 2023

One of my most vivid memories of the Christmas holidays in Cataluña, is the ‘pessebre vivent’ in Pals or the Living Nativity. As darkness falls, the medieval village comes alive for a couple of hours. Hundreds of visitors flock over the old cobblestone road.

On every corner of the street, the church square and the old market place, the inhabitants of Pals are representing Nativity scenes. Torches are illuminating the historic buildings. More than 200 participants are guiding the visitors through different passages of the old and new testament.

pessebre vivent Pals

Our children were very small, when we took them for the first time to the Christmas celebrations in Pals. I remember their glowing faces in the soft light of the street lanterns. Now, 30 years later, we see the same glow on the face of other people’s children. This time I don’t recognize any of the participants anymore; another generation replaced the older inhabitants of Pals. The event has grown bigger with more Nativity scenes. The only thing I miss are the donkeys!

Another important festivity for the children, is the arrival of The Three Kings or Los Reyes Magos on the 5th of January. Melchior, Balthazar and Caspar enter the town on their horses (or camels), late in the afternoon. In most big cities in Spain it is celebrated with a huge parade. Here, in ancient Begur, the ceremony is intimate. Candies are thrown to the children and in the early hours of the 6th of January, the Three Wise Men are leaving presents under the Christmas tree. The “clip clop” of the horses, the colourful costumes and the sound of the drums are just like a fairy tale. The decor of the 17th century ‘Església Parroquial de Sant Pere’ makes the story complete!

Market in La Bisbal and a visit to Pals and Sa Riera

February 18, 2019January 27, 2022 by prey1, posted in Costa Brava, Europe, Spain

15th of February, 2019

After a very cold night with frost on the ground, I hop in the car and decide to go to the market in La Bisbal d’Empordà. At this time of the morning, you still can find a parking spot. Markets are popular among the Catalans and they start early! La Bisbal d’Empordà is a typical provincial town, very well-known for the ceramics and all kinds of baskets. I notice that the stall with meat and cheeses is still on the same corner as 20 years before. They stick to their place! You can get good bargains here and most people buy for the whole week their fruits and veggies. I just stroll around, get familiar again with the Spanish atmosphere and buy some roses for my father’s grave.

La Bisbal

From La Bisbal I return to Pals, park the car in town and walk up towards the cemetery. From now on, I will visit my dad every day of this week, to catch up with him on the stories. A lot has happened over the last 20 years…….

Pals is still Pals, a few stores more and a few less and, very important, more cafeterías! The medieval town has not changed at all and it’s lovely to walk around and admire the view from the old tower.

Pals, Costa Brava

At the parking I start a conversation with an older guy, who is sitting on a bench. We talk about my economic rental car and I tell him the reason I came back to Pals. Long story short; it turns out he was the gardener of my parents!!! What a coincidence! The next day, I take him to the local café and we talk about the old times.

It’s lunchtime and I drive to Playa de Pals, to see if restaurant Mar Blau still exists. It idoes and as always running the whole year. It has a terrace at the seaside or at the back. There is a cold wind blowing, so I prefer to sit on the secluded terrace. To sit outside again is such a great feeling! I take my favorite avocado-schrimp and sip my white wine. This is holiday!

The beach is wide and empty. After lunch, I go for a walk over the rocky path along the sea, towards Sa Riera. Many times I walked this trail in the past and on some stretches it was not very safe, but it improved a lot. The nude beach is also still there and one person is sunbathing. Thanks to my 60 x zoom camera, I know it is a guy and yes, he is nude!

Sa Riera is empty, nearly all the houses are closed and not even one café open. In the summer these places are crowded with tourists and now I barely see a living soul.

Sa Riera

The rocky path to Sa Riera

Towards Sa Riera

Sa Riera

Towards Sa Riera

I return my way to Playa de Pals, via the tiny streets up and down the hill and arrive just before sunset ‘home’.