Exploring impressive Chateau de Bonaguil, Puy L’Eveque and Domme

October, 2018

You will find the fortified Château de Bonaquil in between the Périgord and the Quercy, in the municipality of Saint-Front-sur-Lémance. It is a hidden treasure and surrounded by pure nature. My second attempt to reach the castle was more successful. My advise; just go by car and not by feet!

The castle is an example of evolution in architecture. Built in the 13th century, extended and changed end 15th and beginning 16th century. It’s never attacked, thanks to its impressive defence system.

It is a great place to visit, with all different towers, cellars and even a small museum upstairs. If you walk all the way up, the views are something else!

During our visit we also could admire the work of a local artist. The modern statues against the ruins of the castle were an eye catcher……

From the castle to Puy LÉvêque is a nice drive, partly along the river and passing the famous vineyards of this area. The town is situated right on the river Lot and has pretty steep roads going down to the river. If you follow the bridge, you get a nice overview of the old town from the other side.

Frayssinet-le-Gélat is a great gateway for visiting many historic towns and other cultural attractions. To the North, in the Dordogne, you will find another ‘must see’; Domme. It is a famous bastide town, perched high above the river Dordogne on a cliff. Although it is very touristic, it kept its charme and as soon as you start walking along the promenade around the town, you forget the busy centre. While walking you will pass the remains of the fortified walls and the gateways into town, like the Port del Bos and the Porte de la Combe. There is a variety of honey-coloured houses and cottages and amazing views over the river and valley from every corner of the town. For those who are interested, Domme gives the opportunity to visit the caves, which are situated underneath the town.

During my stay in Frassinet-le Gélat, I tried to visit as many places as possible. Too many to mention in this blog. I fell in love with the area, as it has not only beautiful nature and wonderful hiking paths, but also so much culture. Every village or town is a museum and always there is river lingering through the countryside. A place to go back!

 

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In between castles, cathedrals and the french country life.

September, 2018

Nearly two weeks I am staying now in Frayssinet-le-Gelat and just loving it! I am running from one cathedral to the other, discover empty, spooky houses, drive along the river Lot and explore all the hiking trails around the village (where I even spot a deer walking in between the houses).

In between I work. On my blog, following courses and loads of other administration. I have to get used to shop twice a week, as there are no supermarkets in the neighbourhood. Constantly, I am out of supplies, so sometimes my meal consists of tomatoes and tuna or cheese and olives. The bakery is closed on Monday and the only eatery in town, called café Le Bourian, closes Tuesday night and Wednesday. If I am touring around and I see a big store, I immediately stop the car and go shopping.

While being in France, you should at least once visit a Brocante. It reminded me of the time we lived in Greece, when once a month whole families got in their car at 6.00 in the  morning, on their way to the carbootsale. Most of the time it was held at a big parking spot in front of the supermarket. It was a great way to get rid of old clothes, toys, books and all kinds of rubbish. At the same time it taught the children how to sell their own stuff for the highest price possible and it had a social function; afterwards we spent the earnings in the taverna with other ‘carbootsale friends’. Here in Prayssac it looks exactly the same, but the socializing and money spending starts already at lunchtime!

Frayssinet-le Gelat is surrounded by hiking trails, just like all other villages in the Lot department. Only the signs tend to disappear after a few kilometers. At least I noticed, that you are safe following the yellow sign and NOT the yellow cross! The best map these days is my phone; at least it tells me where I am (very important as I get lost everywhere!). One day I discover, that just five minutes walking up the road behind ‘my’ house, there is this ‘château’, totally abandoned. I heard that it belongs to two sisters, one passed away and the other one left. The garden is overgrown and it looks, even on this sunny day, a bit spooky. I try to take some pictures from the other side and would have loved to get through the gates and see it from the inside!

I continue my hike into the woods and feel pretty uncomfortable. No other souls walking here, only plenty of mosquitoes flying around and I even more spooky houses present….

My speed is increasing and I force myself to keep on walking. Finally, there is light at the end of the tunnel; I arrive at a road, which leads me back to town. On my return in the village, I have a relaxing moment with a glass of wine at Le Bourian.20180924_175603.jpg

On another occasion, I get in the car to drive to this very impressive castle, just thirty minutes from where I am staying. It is called Château de Bonaguil and according to the map I can reach it via the small village of Saint-Front-sur-Lémance. While driving along the scenic road, I just can avoid a dead deer. Not a nice start, but nothing can spoil my day. The weather is superb again and I can’t wait to see the castle. Just today they broke up the road in the tiny village. In my best french I ask the roadworkers if I can walk to the castle. Oh yes, not a problem at all! So I park the car somewhere in the shade and start climbing the road. I have my water and my biscuits, as always. I follow the signs and the road has a lot of curves and is awfully quiet.

The only car which passes, is the car with the same roadworkers coming from the other side!!! Ehhhh? Why didn’t they tell me that there is another way to the castle? Ah well, it is a nice walk, although again I am the only person hiking. The road becomes smaller and now goes through the woods. I see a sign; castle one kilometer. Yes, I made it! Suddenly, there is an open space and wow, the castle is right in front of me, situated high on a cliff. I look at the castle and at the road in front of me; it is going down and down and the curves are going the wrong way. It means that I have to walk up and up again later. This is too much. No clue where I will end up. I decide to go back and will try to reach the castle via another way, but not today! After an hour (going down goes faster), I reach the village again. The roadworkers are still there and I decide to give them a big smile and just rush to my car. At least I did see the castle!!!P1040359